Disassembly Dash

Dash Pad removal

I broke out the Dash into a separate post, since it has a lot of parts that have to be removed.

Happy steps to remove the dash

  1. Dash Pad:
    The first step to removing the dash is to get the dash pad off.   There are a lot of screws to hold the dash pad in place. See the picture Dash-Screw locations.  I have already removed the plastic trim on the lower part of the dash. but I marked the location of screws to help you find them.  Remove the screws shown, do the same on the passenger side.   On top of the where it meets the glass, there are an additional three screws, near the defrost vents, remove them too.  At this point the dash pad should be loose and ready to remove
  2. Clock, and gauge cluster:
    The gauge and clock pods should be mostly loose by now, but there are a couple of screws left on the lower sides, that need to be removed.  I have marked their relative locations on the photo Gauge Cluster Clock removal.  If you have not done so yet, remove the steering column trim piece.  Carefully check the pods to ensure you have all the screws out, it should be very loose by now.  next unplug the electrical connections and remove the pods.
  3. Steering column:
    The steering column has bolts in the engine compartment, that should be removed first.  There is a bolt that attaches the Steering column to the steering box, remove that.  Unplug the electrical connectors.  Remove the four bolts that hold the steering column to the fire wall.  Finally two more bolts that hold the steering column to the dash.  once all those are removed you should be able to remove the column.
  4. Lower dash:
    The lower dash is held in place by several brackets and bolted to the body on the sides  In the pictures Steering-lower dash, and lower dash brackets, I have marked the bolts that need to be removed.  At this point the dash should tip forward as shown in lower dash bracket driver side.  Now unbolt  and unplug the fuse panel, firewall connector, rear wiring harness, heater controls, etc.  This should allow you to remove the lower dash.  Note if you have AC, you will have to remove the hoses and attachments to get some of the parts.  The lower dash is not real heavy but it is large and cumbersome to remove. We are coming to the end, only a few more pieces to remove.
  5. E-Brake:
    The first step to remove the emergency brake assembly is to loosen, and remove the brake cables from under the car.  My car was missing all the E-brake cables, so I don;t have any good pictures, but any good shop manual will show you how to do R&R on the E-brake cables.  Once you have removed all the lower brake cables, the only one remaing is the one that goes through the floor to the pedal.  The easy way to remove that cable, is to fully depress the pedal.  Take a vice grip and clamp the cable right as it exits bracket on the pedal assembly (see photo clamp here).  This will hold the cable, and when you release the pedal, the end of the cable will slide up, and allow you to remove it.  You can remove the clamp, careful not let the cable slam back down as it could brake the end off.  remove the clip and the three bolts that hold the assembly in place.  You can remove the assembly, and  fish the cable through the floor.
  6. Heater Core:
    Removing the heater core is pretty straight forward, like the steering column there are bolts int he engine compartment and under the dash. Start by removing the defroster vent.  There are three nuts on the under side of the dash by the windshield, as shown in photo Defroster hidden screws.  you can now remove the vent tubing.  Inside the car there is one bracket, and the  heater hoses.  remove the bolt from the bracket.  The hoses can be removed now, or you can slide the hoses through the firewall when you remove the heater core, your choice.  Moving to the engine compartment, remove the nuts that hold the heater core.  I have marked them in the photo heater-core-engine-side.  If you have AC, you will more to remove as the AC lines run through the fire wall to.  At this point you can remove the heater core.  I took it outside right away and blew it out with compressed air.  40 years of dead mice, leaves, dirt, etc. came out.  Big Yuck!  Now is a good time to clean and inspect the rubber gaskets on the vent doors, also inspect the heater core, make note of any repairs needed to be complete before you re-install the core.
  7. Done:
    At this point you are pretty much done.  just remove the sound deadening and clean up/remove any caulking, or sealant.  Also inspect your cowl for rust, and mark any spots for repair.  If you look in the photos you will see that i have a few small pin holes to address.  but I have seen cowls that are completely rusted out.